Hormones and skin: acne, pigment, and IVF guide
Original video 18 min4 min read
Skin doesn’t live in isolation. It responds to sleep, stress, diet, and—very noticeably—hormones. That’s why many people see jawline breakouts in their late 20s, pigment changes with hormonal birth control, or drier, more reactive skin during phases like trying to conceive, fertility treatment, pregnancy, or postpartum.
The good news is that you can plan ahead. If you understand which hormones tend to drive changes at each stage and you adjust your routine (and expectations), you’ll reduce frustration and get better results.
How hormones affect the skin
Hormones influence three key levers:
- Oil production: androgens can increase sebum and clogging.
- Inflammation: hormonal shifts can amplify redness and breakouts.
- Pigmentation: estrogen can contribute to discoloration like melasma.
Not every issue is “hormonal,” but if the pattern repeats (cyclical flares, typical zones, changes linked to treatments), it’s worth looking through that lens.
In your 20s: hormonal acne and clogged pores
A classic concern is acne that starts or worsens in the mid-to-late 20s, especially along the jawline and chin. It often tracks with androgen fluctuations and increased oil production.
A practical baseline routine
- Gentle cleanse 1–2 times per day.
- One main breakout active: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or sulfur (pick one and stay consistent).
- A non-comedogenic moisturizer to support the barrier.
- Daily sunscreen.
Helpful ingredients (and why)
- Azelaic acid: supports redness, inflammation, and post-breakout marks; often well tolerated.
- Retinoids: effective for comedones and texture, but avoid if you’re trying to conceive.
- Spironolactone: can be a game changer for hormonal acne in some cases, but it requires medical supervision and isn’t compatible with pregnancy.
Birth control and skin: acne may improve, but watch for pigment
Not all contraceptives affect skin the same way. Some combination pills (estrogen + progestin) can improve acne by stabilizing hormones. However, estrogen can also contribute to melasma (brown patches, often on cheeks and forehead), especially with sun exposure.
Progestin-only methods (some implants or certain IUDs) may be less likely to worsen melasma, but they can aggravate acne in some people.
Practical tip
If you notice new pigment after starting a hormonal method, don’t ignore it. Tighten up sunscreen habits and discuss alternatives. Melasma is highly sun sensitive (including visible light), so daily protection matters.
Trying to conceive: adjust your routine early
A common mistake is keeping “strong” actives until the last moment. If you’re trying to get pregnant, simplify:
- Prioritize gentle cleansing, moisturization, and sunscreen.
- Keep safer options like azelaic acid.
- Avoid retinoids and ask your dermatologist about pregnancy-compatible alternatives.
Fertility treatment (IVF) and infertility: real changes can happen
Fertility medications can change the skin in intense but temporary ways. Some protocols suppress ovulation to control timing, which can feel like a “mini menopause”: more dryness, sensitivity, and flushing. Others stimulate the ovaries and may increase inflammation or breakouts.
How to support your skin during IVF
- Reinforce the barrier: moisturizers with ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid.
- Reduce irritating actives if you feel stinging or peeling.
- Keep your routine simple: fewer products, more consistency.
- If you break out, don’t over-exfoliate; it often makes things worse.
Pregnancy: the “glow” isn’t guaranteed
During pregnancy you can see opposite effects: acne may improve for some and worsen for others; pigment often increases and skin can become more reactive.
A conservative approach helps most: daily sunscreen, steady hydration, and pregnancy-compatible actives recommended by your clinician. Melasma prevention is largely a sunscreen game.
Postpartum: hormonal drop, stress, and shifting skin
After delivery, hormones drop quickly and sleep deprivation and stress pile on. Breakouts, sensitivity, and worsening pigment can appear.
A realistic survival kit
- Minimal routine: cleanse, moisturize, protect.
- One active if you tolerate it (for example, azelaic acid).
- Don’t expect a full “reset” in weeks; think months.
When to seek professional help
Consider seeing a professional if:
- acne is painful or leaving scars,
- you suspect melasma and it doesn’t improve with sunscreen,
- you’re in IVF/pregnancy and want a safe plan,
- you’re considering prescription options (like spironolactone).
Small daily habits that make a big difference
If your skin is fluctuating, it’s tempting to overhaul everything. A better approach is to stabilize the basics for 2–4 weeks and then adjust.\n\n- Keep products consistent: switching cleansers, actives, and moisturizers every few days makes it impossible to see what works.\n- Protect the barrier first: if you feel stinging, burning, or tightness, reduce actives and focus on gentle cleansing and moisturization.\n- Make sunscreen non-negotiable: pigment problems are much harder to treat than to prevent.\n- Track triggers: note when flares happen (cycle timing, new supplements, travel, stress, sleep). Patterns often show up quickly.\n\nThese steps won’t “solve hormones,” but they reduce the noise so targeted treatments work better.
Conclusion
Hormones influence your skin, but they don’t control it completely. If you adjust expectations and simplify your strategy (strong barrier, daily protection, well-chosen actives, and medical support when needed), you can navigate birth control, fertility treatment, pregnancy, and postpartum with fewer flares, less irritation, and better long-term results.
Knowledge offered by Dr. Shereene Idriss