5 underrated skincare ingredients worth trying now

Retinol and hyaluronic acid get most of the attention in skincare marketing, but the ingredients working quietly in the background often do more of the heavy lifting. Formulation is really about an ecosystem of ingredients working together, and some of the quiet workhorses inside that ecosystem rarely get the credit they deserve. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss breaks down five underrated ingredients that deserve a spot in your routine, why they work, and who should use them.

HPR: a gentler way into retinoids

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, or HPR, belongs to the retinoid family alongside retinol, retinal, and prescription retinoic acid. Most retinoids need to convert through several steps before they can bind to skin receptors, which is part of why they cause so much irritation along the way. HPR skips that slow conversion and activates the receptor through a different mechanism, so it delivers similar benefits (cell turnover, smoother texture, less visible fine lines) with a much lower risk of the redness and peeling known as the "retinol rebellion."

That makes HPR a good entry point for people who have tried retinoids before and given up, or who are simply scared to start. Consistency matters more than strength here: begin two or three nights a week and slowly add more nights as your skin adjusts. Some formulas pair HPR with a retinal for extra potency, which can still cause some irritation because of the retinal component, so ease in slowly if you go that route. Skip HPR altogether if you're pregnant.

Panthenol: the barrier's best friend

Panthenol, or pro-vitamin B5, converts in the skin to pantothenic acid and plays a key role in barrier repair. As a humectant, it holds onto water in the upper layers of skin, but its real value is reducing transepidermal water loss, the water that escapes through gaps in a compromised skin barrier. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help skin recover from irritation, over-exfoliation, or procedures.

Panthenol suits dry or dehydrated skin, compromised barriers, and anyone recovering from retinoid irritation or exfoliating acids. It also pairs well with actives that could otherwise feel harsh: combining panthenol with glycolic acid, for example, can make a strong exfoliant far more tolerable.

Ergothioneine: an antioxidant your body can't make

Ergothioneine is a sulfur-containing amino acid and antioxidant with an unusual distinction: the body cannot produce it and has to obtain it from food sources like mushrooms. What makes it stand out further is a dedicated transporter called OCTN1, whose job is to pull ergothioneine into skin cells, something most topical antioxidants never reach. Because it works from inside the cell rather than just between cells, some scientists have nicknamed it the "longevity vitamin" for its role in fighting the oxidative stress that comes from pollution, sun exposure, and everyday life stressors.

It's a strong pick for anyone focused on preventing premature aging without turning to in-office procedures, though its cost means it's still uncommon in mass-market formulas. A handful of vitamin C serums now pair the two ingredients together, combining ergothioneine's cellular antioxidant defense with vitamin C's brightening effect.

Diglucosyl gallic acid: brightening through the microbiome

This water-soluble derivative of gallic acid, found naturally in grapes, tea, and oak, is a newer brightening ingredient with an unusual mechanism: your skin's microbiome converts it into its active form, gallic acid, after application. From there it interferes with the pigment pathway that sun exposure and oxidative stress trigger, helping fade both brown discoloration and redness.

That dual action makes it useful for post-acne marks that would otherwise turn into lingering brown spots, for uneven tone, and as a gentler option for people who can't tolerate stronger pigment-fighting ingredients.

Zinc PCA: oil control without stripping

Zinc PCA shouldn't be confused with zinc oxide. Its anti-inflammatory properties reduce redness and regulate excess oil production, while the PCA component helps skin hold onto moisture, so you get oil control without the dryness that often comes with it. It's especially useful for combination, acne-prone, and rosacea-prone skin looking to manage shine without over-drying.

Building an ingredient ecosystem

None of these ingredients works in isolation, and that's the point: skincare formulation is about an ecosystem of ingredients supporting each other, not a single hero ingredient doing everything. If your skin is generally sensitive, patch test any new product before adding it to your routine so you know exactly what you're reacting to.

Start with the ingredient that matches your most pressing concern: HPR for texture and fine lines, panthenol for a damaged barrier, ergothioneine for long-term antioxidant protection, diglucosyl gallic acid for discoloration, or zinc PCA for oil and redness. Build from there instead of trying to add everything at once, and give each addition a few weeks before judging whether it's working. Skincare results compound slowly, and the ingredients that get the least hype are often the ones doing the most consistent, long-term work for your skin.